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Origins and significance

This delicious dish is prepared from small fish called “cá mương” (Hemiculter leucisculus), a variety of wild carp that inhabit the waters of Ba Be Lake. Despite their small size, these fish offer firm and delicately sweet flesh, perfect for grilling. The recipe for Grilled Fish Pac Ngoi is a precious heritage of the Tày ethnic group, established in Pac Ngòi, a charming village nestled on the lake’s shores.

► The Tay of Ba Be: A Fascinating People of Vietnam

Traditional preparation

The preparation of Grilled Fish Pac Ngoi is a true ritual. The fish are carefully cleaned and gutted, then delicately pinched between bamboo sticks. They are then sun-dried for several days, an essential process to firm up their flesh. Once dried, they are marinated with a blend of local spices, such as forest pepper (Mac khen), chili, turmeric, and salt, giving them unique flavors. Finally, the fish are grilled over a wood fire, a cooking method that imparts an incomparable smoky flavor and a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture.

1946-1954 : The First Indochina War

During the First Indochina War, which pitted the Việt Minh against the French colonial power, Ba Be, with its rugged topography and low population density, proved to be a strategic refuge for the independence forces. Its dense forests, dotted with caves and steep terrain, offered an ideal natural sanctuary for fighters and cadres of the nationalist movement. Far from the major cities and French-controlled areas, Ba Be could serve as a rear base, a training ground, and a discreet gathering point. Moreover, its proximity to the Chinese border, which became a major supporter of the Việt Minh after 1949, made it a possible transit route for the shipment of resources and materials. The local communities, mainly composed of the Tày, Nùng, and Dao ethnic groups, also played a role, offering their knowledge of the terrain, logistical support, and discretion to the Việt Minh forces

A Journey through History

200 to 300 years ago, the ancestors of the Nùng left their homeland to settle in Vietnam. Today, they form one of the country’s most important ethnic minorities, with over a million people. Their close ties with the Tày and Zhuang people reflect a shared history and a strong cultural identity.

Architecture, Reflecting a Way of Life

The traditional houses of the Nùng, whether on stilts or made of rammed earth (trinh tuong), are designed to adapt to the mountainous environment and climate. The yin-yang tiled roofs and spaces dedicated to storage, animals, and daily life are testimony to their ingenuity and respect for nature.

► The Tays of Ba Be: A Mosaic of Traditions

Language, Religion, and Spirituality

The Nùng language, belonging to the Tai-Kadai group, serves as a bridge to their origins and linguistic cousins. Their spirituality is a blend of animism, Buddhism, and Confucianism, where ancestor worship and shamanic ceremonies hold a central place. The veneration of figures like Quan Âm (Guanyin) highlights the richness of their pantheon.

Origins and history

Mèn mén is an ancestral dish, passed down from generation to generation within the H’Mông people. Its origin dates back to the time when corn became a staple crop in the mountainous regions of Vietnam, replacing rice, which was rare or difficult to grow. The H’Mông, with their ingenuity and deep connection to the land, have transformed this humble cereal into a nourishing and tasty dish. Although Mèn mén is a specialty of the H’mông of Hà Giang, it is also possible to taste it locally in Ba Be.

► The H’mong of Ba Be: The People of the Mountains

Preparation: An ancestral art

The corn grown by the H’Mong people on the high hills is fragrant and sticky. This dish seems very simple, but its preparation requires a lot of effort. The corn kernels are separated, ground and sieved to obtain a very fine and homogeneous powder. H’Mong women must calculate the amount of water needed for the powder to be smooth, neither too dry nor too sticky. Then they steam the corn flour twice. The first time, they steam until the corn flour swells, then they take it out to cool. They stir the steamed flour until it becomes frothy, then steam it a second time, over medium heat, until it is fragrant. The men men is cooked, fragrant, sticky and supple.

Diversity and Traditions

The Dao community is divided into several groups, each possessing unique cultural and linguistic characteristics. Among the most notable are the Dao Lo Giang, the Dao Red, and the Dao Coins, easily recognizable by their colorful traditional costumes and unique practices.

Language and Spirituality

The Hmong-Dao language is commonly spoken, while Vietnamese facilitates daily communication. Sino-Dao, used by ritual masters, serves to transmit ancestral knowledge. The spirituality of the Dao blends popular beliefs, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism. Ancestor worship and agricultural rituals shape their spiritual life, rooted in respect for nature and past generations.

► Learn more about Dao Ethnic Group

Ban Vuong: A Founding Ancestor

The Dao particularly venerate Ban Vuong, the mythical ancestor considered the founder of their ethnic group. This tutelary figure is central to many rituals essential for the health and prosperity of families. Ceremonies in his honor are significant moments in community life, reinforcing connections to their origins.

Funeral Rites: A Tribute to Ancestors

Dao funeral rites, rich in tradition and spirituality, culminate during the Festival of the Dead, celebrated in the third lunar month. These rituals, often led by shamans, ensure a harmonious transition to the afterlife. Body preparation, offerings, and prayers reflect the unbreakable bond between the living and the deceased.

► Read more : Ancestors worshiping

What makes the Tay so special?

Their stilt houses are true masterpieces of traditional architecture. Built without a single nail, they are perfectly adapted to their environment. The ground floor serves as a stable or storage area, while the family lives upstairs.

The Tay are divided into five groups, each with their distinctive style of clothing: the Tho dress like the Thais, the Ngan wear short shirts, the Phen prefer brown, the Thu Lao sport a pyramidal headband, and the Pa Di are distinguished by their roof-shaped hats.

Music plays a central role in their culture. The dan tinh (string instrument) and the Then singing recount their stories and legends. These oral traditions are their way of preserving their heritage.

On the lake, you will come across their “doc moc” canoes, carved from a single tree trunk – a true symbol of their way of life.

In terms of cuisine, it’s a festival of flavors! Don’t miss their famous Banh Cooc Mo (horn-shaped rice cake), smoked pork, fermented shrimp, and fish soups flavored with herbs.

The Tay mainly practice Then, a religion that blends ancestor worship and Taoist influences. Their festivals, like the Lồng tồng (“field descent” ceremony), mark the year.

Today, you can meet the Tay in the villages of Coc Toc, Pac Ngoi, and Ban Cam. They continue their traditions while adapting to the modern world, creating a fascinating blend of old and new.

So, the next time you pass through Vietnam, make a detour to Ba Be. The Tay will welcome you with open arms, happy to share their unique culture and authentic way of life with you!

► Learn more here

Why indulge in paddling on this enchanting lake?

Three good reasons:

Firstly, kayaking will allow you to discover the most remote and hidden corners of this haven of peace. Navigate to encounter stunning flora and fauna: colorful birds, delicate butterflies, fish swimming in the crystal-clear waters, and with a bit of luck, mischievous monkeys and elegant otters. Prepare your best shots, you’ll come back with an album worthy of a National Geographic documentary!

Next, this water adventure will offer you an authentic immersion into the local culture. Lake Ba Be is home to several ethnic minority villages, such as the Tày and Dao. Let yourself be carried to these warm communities, meet their inhabitants, admire their refined craftsmanship, and learn about their traditional cuisine. An extraordinary cultural immersion!

Lastly, kayaking is a gentle and relaxing activity, ideal for recharging in nature. Rocked by the gentle lapping of the water, the birdsong, and the beauty of the landscapes, you can clear your mind and reconnect with yourself. A guaranteed experience of well-being and fulfillment!

What is the best season for kayaking on Lake Ba Be?

Timing-wise, the best period for kayaking on Lake Ba Be is between March and May, and then from September to November. The climate is mild and sunny during these times, with a more moderate tourist influx than in the high season. However, feel free to venture onto the water all year round, depending on your desires and tolerance to weather conditions.

Origins and Legends

The story of Banh Day is closely linked to that of Banh Chung, another traditional sticky rice cake for Tet. According to legend, these two cakes were created by Prince Lang Lieu, the son of King Hung Vuong VI, thousands of years ago. The king challenged his sons to prepare the most special dish for New Year, and Lang Lieu, inspired by a dream, created Banh Chung, symbolizing the Earth, and Banh Day, symbolizing the Sky.

Banh Day, with its round shape and white color, can also represent the moon, a source of fertility and prosperity in Vietnamese culture. It is often consumed alongside Banh Chung, which symbolizes the Earth with its square shape and green color. Together, these two cakes represent the harmony between Heaven and Earth, a fundamental concept of Asian philosophy.

Did you know? In the South, Banh Tet is prepared, which has a cylindrical shape. It symbolizes the Earth.

► Traditional dishes of the Lunar New Year

Geographical Distribution

Although Banh Day is consumed throughout Vietnam, it is particularly popular in the Northern regions, especially in Bac Kan, where it is considered a local specialty. Each region has its own way of preparing Banh Day, with variations in ingredients and cooking methods.

In Bac Kan, Banh Day is often prepared with mung beans, which give it a softer texture and a slightly sweet taste. It is also wrapped in banana leaves, giving it a subtle and characteristic aroma.

► More to read : The Cuisine of North Vietnam

A journey between two worlds

Ba Be National Park stands as a natural jewel nestled in the mountains of the north. Its peaceful waters, deep blue, reflect the sky while ancient forests whisper their secrets to travelers. Tumultuous waterfalls punctuate the landscape, creating a natural symphony that resonates in the valleys. This wild beauty contrasts beautifully with the historical austerity that awaits visitors in Pac Bo.

A few hours’ drive away, Pac Bo tells another story, that of a man and a nation in search of freedom. It is here that in 1941, after three decades of absence, Ho Chi Minh set foot again on his native land. While the cave and museum commemorating this event may seem modest, the journey itself becomes a transcendental experience. The winding road leading to it traverses a landscape of stunning beauty: traditional villages nestled in the valleys, terraced rice fields climbing the mountainsides, all dominated by imposing karst formations that cut through the horizon like silent sentinels.

► Who was Ho Chi Minh ?

The Majestic Ban Gioc Falls

A natural jewel of Northern Vietnam, the Ban Gioc waterfall cascades in three majestic tiers at the Sino-Vietnamese border. Its turquoise waters flow down limestone cliffs over 30 meters high, creating a grand spectacle. Visitors can get up close to the phenomenon on traditional bamboo rafts or hike along the trails offering spectacular viewpoints.